Crusts of land mark the rim of Santoríni’s spooky 10km (6-mile) wide and 380m (1,250ft)-deep caldera. The largest, curving around the northwest, is Thirssía, part of Santoríni until the two were blasted apart in 236 BC. In one of its pumice quarries a Middle Cycladic settlement was discovered, pre-dating Minoan Akrotíri, though there are no traces of it now.
The atmosphere is reminiscent of Santoríni in the 1950s. The main business of the five little villages on Thirassía is growing tasty tomatoes and beans on the fertile plateau, although there is increasing tourism spillover from Santoríni, especially in the largest village, Manolás. There’s a little bus, but the best way to get around is by bike, although you’ll have to bring your own. You’ll have to ask around for rooms, domatia, if you want to stay overnight (not many people speak English).
Images by Albinfo, Bernard Gagnon