Casizolu

Unusually for Sardinia, better known for its flocks of sheep, this is a cow's milk cheese, with magic associations: according to tradition, it's born on a spent volcano, made only by women, and only at night. Pear-shaped, stringy and yellow, it is redolent of the flavours of the maquis, arbutus and myrtle and gets a bit sharp with age. It's often used as a filling in sebadas.