And the Balsamic Vinegar Museum
Little Spilamberto, 10km southeast of Modena, grew up around a castle of 1210. Today it's been known as the home of the Museo del Balsamico Tradizionale or Museum of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, housed in the 18th-century Villa Fabriani, where you can learn all about Modena's special elixir.
On the first weekend of October, during the Mast Còt the streets are filled with the aromas of boiling grape juice, cooked in traditional pots on large fires, before ageing in wooden barrels. The best will linger there for a quarter of a century.