Castello Sforza and the Enoteca Regionale
Emilia-Romagna keeps its largest store of regional wines an hour southeast of Bologna, housed in the mighty walls of the chubby- towered 13th-century Rocca di Dozza, otherwise known as the the Castello Sforza, after Caterina Sforza, who had it rebuilt in its current state in the late 15th century. The small medieval town of Dozza itself is otherwise known for its colourful murals, the result of the Biennale del Muro Dipinto, a festival of wall painting in odd numbered years in September.
The upper floors of the castle house the Museo della Rocca, with a mix of family portraits of former owners; a historic kitchen; sketches of designs for the village murals and paintings by Norma Mascellani and Carlo Leoni, both pupils of Giorgio Morandi.
The cellars hold the Enoteca Regionale Emilia Romagna with over a 1000 wines from the region, displayed according to what dishes they accompany best. There's a wine bar and various tastings and courses; check the website.
Getting there: Take bus no. 101 from Bologna to Toscanella and then the no. 147 to Dozza.
Museo della Rocca +39 0542 678 240; website; open Tue-Sat 10am-1pm & 2.30-5; Sun 10am-7pm; adm €5; students €3, under 18 free.
Enoteca Regionale Emilia Romagna +39 0542 367 700, website; open Tue-Sun 10am-1pm & 3-7.30pm. Wine Bar open Sun 3-7pm.