galette des rois

Around New Year’s, French bakeries and supermarkets start to offer the Kings’ Cake, the galette des rois, a round puff pastry usually filled with frangipane.

They are traditionally eaten on Epiphany (6 January), but everyone likes them so much they are available until the end of the month—coinciding with the big January sales.

Baked inside the galette is a fève (a ceramic ‘bean’ that originally represented the Christ child but can be anything from a tiny figure of Elvis or a Smurf). The tradition is said to date back to the 14th century, when monks at Besancon (Lorraine) chose their leader by whoever found a gold coin hidden in a loaf of bread.

Others say it originated with the ancient Roman Saturnalia, when all norms were turned upsidedown and masters and slaves dined together, and whichever slave got the fève got to rule for the day.