The Arabs brought the first aubergines to Sicily, where they are still a staple, although it took centuries for them to become popular in the rest of Italy (they were despised as 'mela insana' and considered only fit for the poor). Today they're a vegetarian's best friend in Italy.

One variety originally from Ethiopia, the melanzana rossa di Rotonda, grown in Basilicata, looks more like a tomato.

Some of the classic dishes:

involtini di melanzane: slices rolled around a filling of anchovy, ham and cheese, or whatever.

melanzane alla campagnola: sliced and grilled, then topped with garlic, basil, mint and olive oil (Puglia).

melanzane al cioccolato: a remarkable dessert from the Amalfi coast, alternating layers of fried slices of aubergine, chocolate and ricotta, with candied orange peel, pine nuts, sugar, cinnamon and almonds. Also called parmigiana di melanzane al cioccolate.