mostaccioli dolci

These pretty biscuits are named after the mosto cotto (must) traditionally used to sweeten them, although today most bakers use honey. They are popular throughout the south, although each region has a very distinct recipe.

For Christmas in Calabria (where they are also known as mastazzola, mustazzoli or nzudde), they make them in beautiful shapes and decorate them with colourful bits of tin foil or colourful candies. According to legend they were introduced by the Arabs, and became a speciality of the Dominicans in Soriano Calabro. Even so, the story goes that St Francis of Assisi asked for them on his death bed (the horses, topped with burnt sugar, are known as the horses of St Francis).

Another Calabrian version resembles a soft loaf filled with almonds, honey, and sometimes chocolate, baked and then sliced, similar to marzallette.

Other versions include the Neapolitan mostaccioli made with chopped almonds, honey, oranges, pisto and cocoa, then dipped in chocolate. On Puglia's Salentine peninusla, they make another version, mustazzoli.