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A large yellow citrus fruit with a thick edible skin; native to the Middle East, brought to Italy in the 10th century by the Arabs. They grow around Diamante in Calabria where they are harvested for Sukkot in the autumn; the smooth-peel citron (cedro liscio di Diamante) is in the Ark of Taste.

Before the advent of train travel there was also a huge market for them, for similar ritual reasons, in Limone sul Garda on Lake Garda—the northernmost spot where citrus can survive, from where they were exported to Austria and Germany. They can be eaten with sugar, or sliced thinly and served with olive oil and salt as an antipasto; they are also the main ingredient in cedrata.

Text © Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls

Images by: Annie Mole