risotto

Risotto is a place where Italian cooks can follow their fancy, using a short-grain riso such as arborio, vialone nano or carnaroli.

There are a number of classic versions: risotto Milanese is yellow with saffron and parmesan. In Venice, the favourite risotto comes with peas, risi e bisi and made a bit soupier than most, or all'onda ('with waves'). Mushrooms are a favourite (risotto ai funghi) and seafood (risotto marinara or risotto al pescatore).

Then are meaty versions. Risotto alla sbirraglia has a whole chicken in it; they say it was first made for the cops (sbirri) in Genoa. In Brescia they make a similar riso alla pitocca. Many recipes call for sausage or salame; risotto alla pilota, with sausage and butter, was a favourite of the rice workers themselves (who were called piloti just like the wooden piles that support Venice in the lagoon).