If you suffer from mal de civilisation (and who doesn’t these days?) catch one of the small ferries from Chóra Sfakíon or Paleochóra that sail 24 nautical miles to the triangular maquis-matted islet of Gávdos, the southernmost point in Europe, and one of the best places in the world to see and photograph the Milky Way
The year-round population is around 50 – down from 8,000 in the 1200s, but rises to around 3000 in summer. Known in ancient times as Clauda, it is said to be the Homeric Ogygia, the isle of Calypso; today it’s seductive for anyone seeking the peaceful Greek island of yore. Beware that although cedars provide some shade, it can get hot, and that the unpredictable sea can make your stay longer than you intended. Out-of-season ferries are so irregular that you’ll have to stick around Chóra Sfakíon and wait for one to appear.
Images by Artemis Katsadoura, Sergio M