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manky cheese transfigured

Bruss, brosso, brös or brussu, is the old Piemontese-Ligurian peasant trick for making good use of old leftover bits of cheese. Mix them with milk and a spirit, usually grappa, let it ferment until it starts stinking up the kitchen, or longer, and then spread it on bread, or add it to pasta or polenta.

Nowadays tamer versions are produced commercially, but good old-fashioned homemade, weapons-grade bruss is enjoying a strong foodie revival. Some aficionados let it fester for years before tasting. As the saying goes: “Only love is stronger than Brös.”

The bruzza made in the province of Imperia is in the Ark of Taste.

Text © Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls

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