The essential Italian sheep cheese, made all over the country in many varieties.

In the south and in Piemonte the same basic cheese is called tuma if unsalted and young. A young salted version from Sicily is primo sale. Aged, it's called pecorino, and southerners grate it over pasta instead of parmigiano.

Pecorino romano has long been famous; they say it kept the Roman legions going. Today, most pecorino Romano is really made in Sardinia.

Southerners occasionally add peppercorns (pecorino pepato), chillis, walnuts or truffles. Sardinia has more sheep than anywhere in Italy, and pecorino sardo (or fiore sardo) is a hard, slightly brined and smoked DOP variety, and milder than pecorino Romano.