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one name, many sausages

In Calabria, a hard sausage made with black pepper and fennel, but no tomato.

In Puglia, a fresh pork, veal and mutton sausage with cheese and basil

In Lombardy, a fresh sausage, sometimes spelled cervelaa flavoured with saffron and other spices; accompanies a risotto alla Milanese.

In Campania, dainty small pork sausages spiced with black pepper.

All, presumably, were made with brains (cervelli) once long ago, but no longer are. Little ones are cervellatine.

There's a Sagra della Salsiccia in honour of the Puglian cervellata, in late September in Toritto, near Bari.

Text © Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls

Images by: cooking with nonna