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Cured Meats and Sausages

Aging Meat

Italians are masters of salting and curing meat, which they call salume (literally 'salted meat', or plural salumi) with literally millennia of experience––some say they learned the art from the pork-loving Celts. But they also cure beef, wild boar, venison, horse and donkey meat. Every region has its traditions, methods, and of course names spelled a dozen ways in various dialects to bedevil the earnest eater.

Although we might call them all cold cuts, the Italians subdivide salumi into three categories, although even these aren't very neat.

Salumi (as a subcategory) are cured meats from a whole cut of an animal, such as prosciutto, capocolla/coppa, pancetta and bresaola.

Salami (sing. salame) are meats that have been chopped, seasoned, generally but not always stuffed into a casing, then air dried, smoked or salted and left to age. Some of the most renowned come from Emilia-Romagna, including the king of salami, culatello, made from the offcuts of Parma ham, as well as strolghino and Calabria's spicy 'nduja and soppressata are examples. In Umbria, the town of Norcia has been famous for meats since Roman times.

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affettato

sliced cured meats

annoglia

pork sausage made with offal

annoia

Abruzzo sausage

baffo

cured pork cheek

bale d'asu

'ass's balls' sausage

bardiccio fiorentino

Florentine sausage

bastardone

salame from Norcia

biroldo

ancient Tuscan blood sausage

bon bocon

fine dry salami

bondiola

mixed pork meat salame

borzat

sheep in sheep's clothing

boudin

spicy blood and beetroot sausage

gambòtt

salume from Piacenza

bresaola

air dried salt beef

bruciatini

diced crispy pancetta

brusaula

smoked dried meat

buristo

a Tuscan sausage

busambrina

Sicilian bresaola

cacciatorini

dried pork and beef or wild boar salame

cappello del prete

sausage shaped like a priest's hat

carne salada

beef ham

castradina

salted and smoked mutton

cervellata

one name, many sausages

ciarimboli

dried pork sausage

ciauscolo

paté sausage

ciavar

'mad' sausage

cicciolata

pork terrine from Parma

ciccioli

pork crackling or terrine, or lard bread

ciuìga

salame made of pork and turnips

coglioni di mulo

traditional Abruzzo salami

coppa

a spicy salame—or a cup

coppiette

'little couples'—Roman jerky

corallina

one of Rome's favourite salame

cotechino

cooked sausage

crespone

old-fashioned salami

Crudo di Cuneo

prosciutto from Piedmont

culatello

choice 'little bum' ham

cunza

lardo spread

fegatino

soft liver sausage

fidighin

raw liver sausage cured in the sun

filetto baciato

gourmet Piedmont salame

finocchiona

Tuscan fennel-flavoured salami

fiocchetto

culatello's 'little brother'

gota

cured pig's cheek

guanciale

cured pork cheek or jowl

hirschwurst

deer sausage

insaccato

sausage

jambon de Bosses

prosciutto from Aosta

kaiserfleisch

streaky bacon

landjager

smoked sausage from Belluno's mountains

Langhirano

very special Parma ham

lardo

fatback

lucanica

pork sausage

mallegato

Pisan blood sausage

marcundela

pork sausage wrapped in caul

mariola

traditional cured meat of the Po lowlands

mazzafegato

'mad' liver sausage

mazzi

dried pork intestines

mocetta

mountain ham

mortadella

The Pink Queen of Bologna

mortandela

spiced sausage meat speciality

mostardella

sausage from Genoa

mula

a Piedmont salami

muschiska

jerky

muset

pig snout sausage

mustardela

black pudding from Piedmont

nduja

hot Calabrian salame

nnuje

piquant sausage

norcina

with cured meat

paletta

pork shoulder ham

palle di nonno

'granddad's balls' salame

pancetta

bacon

pasta di salame

sausage meat

pastin

sausage from the Dolomite valleys

pendola

dried smoked meat

pestadice

sausage with fried lard

pestat

lard and vegetable sausage

peta

smoked meat from Pordenone

pezzente

fatty pork sausage

pitina

smoked mountain meatball

probusto

Italianized Vienna sausage

prosciutto

ham

sacchiattu

'meat bag' salame

salam d'la duja

salame aged in lard

salama da sugo

the sausage you eat with a spoon

salame

salami

salame di Felino

cat salami

salame di patate

Piedmontese salame with boiled spuds

salame di turgia

beef sausage from the Turinese valleys

salamelle

fresh pork sausage

salamino

salami

salsiccia

sausage

salsiccia alla pizzaiola

sausage with tomatoes

salsiccia sarda

hot Sardinian salame

salumeria

deli selling cured meats and much else

sanguinaccio

blood sausage or a kind of fudge

sciriuj

cured sausages and salami

sfilacci

'threads' or 'scraps' of meat

signora di Conca Casale

country sausage from the Molise

slinzega

beef salami

soppressata

pressed salami

salsiccia di Ceriana

fine Ligurian sausage

spalla

pork shoulder

speck

smoked prosciutto

spianata

pitta bread...or a salame

storta

Belluno sausage

strinù

sausage from Brescia

strolghino

gourmet salami

supprissato di Nicosia

dry pork sausage from Etna

susianella di Viterbo

pork salame

tarese Valdarno

Tuscan mountain bacon

testa

head cheese, brawn

teutenne

cow udder surprise

turcinieddri

organ meat sausage

ventresca

tuna (or pork) belly

ventricina del vastese

spicy Abruzzo salame

violino di capra

goat prosciutto

würstel

Vienna sausage

zampina

pork sausage

zampone

stuffed trotter

zia ferrarese

garlicky salame from Ferrara

Text © Dana Facaros & Michael Pauls

Image by Scott Brenner