If Italy has so few songbirds, it might have something to do with the legions of avid hunters you'll see with strings of thrushes pinned to their designer hunting outfits. It's traditional to simmer the thrushes with olives and lemon.

tordi matti: involtini of horsemeat stuffed with prosciutto, coriander and other spices, a speciality of Zagarolo, near Rome.

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