Irakliá

Southeast of Naxos, Irakliá largest of the Back Islands (pop. 150 the last time anyone counted), is only an hour’s ferry hop from Náxos, but even in mid-August it remains quiet and inviting, without any of the fashionable crowds that descend on the nearby Koufonísia. Unusually for the Cyclades, it’s a good time to visit and join in the Festival of the Panagía on 15 August.

The attractive port, Ag. Geórgios, is set in the hills, with a sandy beach and a little fishing fleet. Nearly everything (which isn’t much) that happens on the island, happens here. From here it’s a 20-minute walk to the large sandy beach at Livádi. If you can’t find a room, you can always camp here.