Irakliá

Southeast of Naxos, Irakliá (pop. 150 the last time anyone counted) largest of the Back Islands or Small Cyclades, is only an hour’s ferry hop from Náxos, but even in mid-August it remains quiet and inviting, without any of the fashionable crowds that descend on the nearby Koufonísia. Unusually for the Cyclades, it’s a good time to visit and join in the Festival of the Panagía on 15 August.

The attractive port, Ag. Geórgios, is set in the hills, with a sandy beach and a little fishing fleet. Nearly everything (which isn’t much) that happens on the island, happens here. From here it’s a 20-minute walk to the large sandy beach at Livádi. If you can’t find a room, you can always camp here.