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onto

fat

The classic dish is oca in onto, goose preserved by being slowly cooked in its own fat, a dish perhaps more associated with southwestern France, but an ancient one around Padua and Venice, learned from the Serenissima's Jews. Not only did it preserve the meat, but the melted fat was a delicious substitute for forbidden lard.

Text © Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls

Image by gourmandise