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Ostriches are raised on a small scale in various places. They make good grilled steaks, and Italians are finding new ways to stew them all the time; southerners like them stracotto, with mint.

For four days in June in Governolo, near Mantua (Lombardy) they hold a Sagra dello Struzzo, with a menu that includes tagliatelle al ragù di struzzo, fagottini al ripieno di struzzo, lasagne, filetto, tagliata, stracotto con polenta, spiedini e medaglioni di struzzo.

Text © Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls

Images by: himself