polenta

Although polenta these days nearly always means a mush or pudding of corn (mais), it dates back to Roman times, long before corn or maize was introduced from the New World: the Roman army marched on barley or spelt (farro) puls or pulmentum. After the 16th century, the corn version was such a success, especially among the poor, that by the 19th century, many, especially in the benighted Papal States, suffered from pellagra, caused by a chronic lack of niacin (vitamin B3) in the diet.

Heavy and very filling, polenta appears far more often on northern tables (southern Italians call northerners 'polentoni'). Traditional polenta cooked at a low simmer takes almost an hour to make and requires constant stirring, but many cooks opt for the instant 5-minute guide, although naturally it isn't as good.

Polenta is wonderfully versatile: when cooked, it can be served as is, or put in a mould and sliced, fried or baked. It is often served with stews such as spezzatina, chicken or rabbit alla cacciatora or sausages; in alpine regions recipes often include lavish amounts of butter and cheese. It can be used to make crostini di polenta (thin fried slices) as a base for toppings.