poularde demi-deuil

Poularde demi-deuil or poularde en petit deuil (‘in half-mourning’) is a poularde with sliced black truffles inserted under the skin before it is cooked in bouillon or steamed, and served with sauce suprême.

This was the great speciality at the Lyonnais restaurant of Françoise Fayolle, aka la Mère Fillioux (1865-1925), who was also known for her excellent quenelles.

She taught the secret of preparing 15 poulardes at a time to Mère Eugénie Brazier (1895-1977), who became the first chef in France to earn six Michelin stars in 1933—three in both of her restaurants, in Lyon and at the Col de la Luère—where Paul Bocuse started his career at age 20.

Not until 1997 would another chef (Alain Ducasse) earn three stars for two restaurants at the same time.