Kásos

If the slow old Greece you were looking for wasn’t in Kárpathos, hop over to its neighbour Kásos (pop.1,080), an isolated rock, 550m high with steep coasts, ravines, and the odd beach wedged in between.

Practically untouched by tourism, outside of a summer influx of Greek Americans, Kásos has a simple, friendly atmosphere, great seafood. Here the panegyri are as traditional as ever and go on until dawn, where you may well hear the locals singing improvised couplets, or mantinádes and music played on the laoúto.

Recently Kásos has set up a network of walking and biking trails with online maps to help you discover its secrets. And be sure to try some of the local award winning cheese, Vonapartis, made in the traditional way by a husband and wife team.

Shipwrecks galore