Rhodes’ south quarter changes personality: it’s drier, windier and relatively undeveloped. Wheat and barley grow here: the Italians tried to develop the farms, and fertile Rhodes could easily support itself, but with so much money in tourism it doesn’t bother.
Instead, as you approach Gennádi you’ll start seeing the weekend villas owned by Rhodes Townies; the beach looks like a vast pebble mosaic that goes on with few interruptions for 11km to Plimíri.
Inland, the little mountain village of Váti, is typical; only 35 people hold the fort during the week.
A boho arty crowd of mostly German ex-pats have fixed up the old houses in pretty Lachaniá; its lovely main plateía was used for several scenes of Claire Peploe’s first film High Season (1988) with Jacqueline Bisset.
Plimíri has wonderful often deserted beaches and dunes (Cape Germáta is lovely, but beware, it’s a turtle-nesting area) and a 16th-century church, Zoödóchou Pigís, with ancient Corinithian columns inside. Ag. Pávlos, inland, was built by the Italians as a model farm.
Images by Cristian Ghe., g.gregorini